Ottolenghi, 287 Upper Street, London

Oct 27, 2009: I have finally arrived at the famous Ottolenghi, a hip healthy eatery in the Islington area of London, and also a cookbook of the same name.Inside is a sleek white narrow space with long tables in the center and seating for two along the wall. At lunch this restaurant seems to attract a yuppyish crowd from the neighbourhood, primarily consisting of soccer moms and their brood.   Food-wise, Ottolenghi more or less lived up to its reputation. I ordered the spicy lamb kotfa (meatballs) mixed with garlic and pine nuts and served with yogurt, as well as two salads: butternut squash and broccoli. It was all very tasty but surprisingly served a bit cold at room temperature. Big tempting meringue balls with berry swirls line the front of the shop with other pastries. One of the owners is known for his pastries, and his passion-fruit and meringue tart is simply the top.   A little history about the place: Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi met just over a decade ago as aspiring chefs in London. After working for various high-end dining establishments, they decided to team up and opened their first of four restaurants in London about five years ago. Yotam and Sami’s common Middle Eastern background (Yotam is Israeli and Sami, Palestinian – both from Jerusalem) is reflected in their cuisine, with an emphasis on vegetable dishes.   Reservations are required for dinner.

Review by: Tara Salman

Posted: Friday, January 08, 2010